LIVES EXTEND FROM UNDERGROUND TO ABOVEGROUND

LIVES EXTEND FROM UNDERGROUND TO ABOVEGROUND

(August 29 - September 4, 2017)

We are in Ukraine, which means “border zone”. Although the word meaning of Ukraine has been described by Russia as an area at margin, rural etc. and the country headed towards the West, a balance policy between Russia and Europe has been taken care of by Ukraine.

The currency of the country is "grivna" (10 grivna is about 1.3 TL, 0,37 $). Here are mostly the Orthodox Christian members.

After a 2-hour journey we arrive in Lviv from Istanbul. Being in“UNESCO World Heritage List” with medieval architecture, Lviv is the Ukraine's second largest city. At first sight, this romantic city impresses us with its churches with cobbled streets and gothic architecture. We are also beginning to meet the cultural aspect of Ukraine, which is usually promoted with entertainment life.

Rynok Square

Towards evening, after settling at our hotel, we go to the famous “Rynok Square” for dinner. Here we taste and enjoy the famous varenyky (a kind of dish made of boiled dough with diverse fillings like potato, mushrooms, vegetables). Then we go to the place called Krivka, which was used as a shelter during World War II. They ask you for a password at the entrance and when you say “Slava Ukraine” they invite and meet you with a liquor. After this scene, we have coffee in one of the maze-looking rooms where photos of war and weapons and ammunition hang on the walls. The food presentations are also very interesting. For example, your meal may be served with an axe on your meat :)

Krivka

The next morning, the first job is to go to Ratusha Tower, which views Lviv 360 degrees from the top. You reach the tower in Rynok Square by passing through the municipal building. We reach the top of the tower half by lift and we continue by steep stairs. According to the officer, we climbed nearly three hundred steps. On the way back to the square we come across musicians and live sculptures on the road.

View of Lviv, Ratusha Tower

We take the City Tour bus (110 grivna per person), which gives us an opportunity for a panoramic view of the city without losing time. The tour bus departs right next to the stunning Opera House with its impressive architecture. It makes us happy to come across Turkish language at menu list in the bus. During the tour we find many opportunities to see the historical buildings like the Armenian Cathedral, the red-roofed fire brigade, the Lychakiv Cemetery and many more. Trams in the city are also quite common.

Opera House

After the tour we go to the Lviv Chocolate Factory, which is also located in Rynok Square, to taste the UNESCO-protected famous Lviv chocolate. The factory is located right next to the statue of Leopold von Sacher Masoch, who gave his name to the idea of masochism. Here we see how chocolate is made, we love chocolates in the shape of guns and heels. The taste of melted chocolate still lingers!

Statue of Masoch

Lviv Chocolate Factory

From the chocolate shop, we go to a shop in which souvenir items sold. When we see the toilet paper where Putin's picture is printed on here, we understand once again how much he is loved here :)

We eat our dinner under candle light at a restaurant called Baczewski. It is a very nice place decorated by romantic furnishings, windows and tables covered laces and also 1920s music played. First we taste the famous Borsch soup made with red beets. We also see that potatoes are widely used in other delights. After drinking home made lemonades, we leave this pleasant place, paying a reasonable price compared to our country. We prefer this place over and over again during our days in Lviv.

Baczewski

The next day we go to a tour including castles and monastery. We want to get detailed information so we continue our trip with our guide Ihor.

Together with our guide Ihor

First we go to "Zolochiv Castle". The fortress, located 60 km from the center of Lviv, is one of the most beautiful examples of defense architecture. In the courtyard of the castle which is built in the 17th century there are two palaces, the "Grand Palace” and the "Chinese Palace" one of the three Chinese palaces in Europe. There is also an oriental garden encircled with bamboos. A part of the palace was later used as a prison. The castle, together with Olesko and Pidhirts and having a medieval architecture, constitutes a pillar of the "Golden Horseshoe". One of the characteristics of Zolochiv Castle's fame is that it has "toilet" as distinct from other castles of the time. There is also a museum in which there are paintings reflecting the battles and materials used in the war. Moreover, at the exit of the castle we see a giant stone of 10 tons. You can wish for it by inserting your finger into the holes in the stone and turning it. One hole is for material, the other for spiritual desires. We try both of course :)

The entrance of Zolochiv Castle

Grand Palace

Next is the second castle Pidhirtsi (Podgoretski Castle). According to Ihor, the historical building we had encountered before arriving at the castle was where Balzac's darling stayed at a time. We arrive at castle passing through a beautiful garden. The garden is designed by French style. There is also an English style at the back and Italian style gardens on the side. The castle was built by architect Andrea del Agua in 1635-1640; a well-preserved Renaissance palace. Located in the rural part of Ukraine's Galicia, this structure resembles rather palace architecture then castle. In addition, the legends of the ghost stories are inspired by the episodes of Ghost Hunters International on the chateau, as well as the Soviet version of movie D'Artagnan and The Three Musketeers motioned here. We also learn that the famous Kazanova lived here.

The entrance of Pidhirtsi (Podgoretski Castle)

Pidhirtsi (Podgoretski Castle)

We enter a small room in the palace courtyard. We see the original plans and photos of the castle. There is also a section where miniature models of the famous buildings of the world are exhibited. During the trip, Ihor also complains that the castle hasn’t been restored. After seeing the historical church right opposite the palace we are on our way to see the third castle.

Historical church, Pidhirtsi (Podgoretski Castle)

Olesky, the 3rd castle, is located 75 km from the center of Lviv. This building, known as the oldest castle in Ukraine, was built in 1327 on a hill dominating the town of Olesko. From 1939 to the mid-1940s it was used as a Polish detention camp. In 1975 in this oval shaped castle a Lviv art gallery was opened. There is a giant table describing the Vienna Battle. In this table, it is illustrated the picture of Young Jan Sobieski's war with the Ottoman army led by Black Mustapha Pasha.

Olesky Castle

This castle invadeded numerous Tatar attacks, famed in which III. Jan Sobieski was born, reflects the arrangements made for the great love of him, French Marie-Casimire de la Granged'Arquien (Marysienka), to whom married in 1665. Meanwhile, there are speculations that Marie is a spy and that she is not loved by the Poles. However, it is also reported that she is a master of diplomacy. Inside we see Sobieski and his wife's paintings.

There is a prison at the entrance of the palace. We learn that the Tatars attacking the castle and uprising peasants were imprisoned here. Also, we don’t avoid our attention the "agava" plant in the courtyard. As we walk in the building, we see a wooden table where the sacred places are carved and painted on the map. We also see miniature works, wooden furniture, tables belongs to Polish nobles, sculptures and icons. Baroque style in the palace is also used.

Our fourth route Pochayiv Lavra Monastery. Built by monks who settled in this region by escaping from the occupation of Kiev by Tatar-Mongols in 1240, this monastery is one of the most important sacred places for Orthodox pilgrims from various parts of the world. At the same time, the second largest monastery of Ukraine. The name "lavra" is used for large monasteries. Orthodox pilgrims and tourists visit this place to see the different energies it reflects and breathtaking and impressive architecture of the miraculous spiritual world. Before hearing the myths about this place just as it was in other spiritual places, in this magnificent building built in late Baroque style in the late 18th century, we also have a feeling of an intrinsic peace of calm.

Pochayiv Lavra Monastery

We need to cover our heads before we enter this monastery and wear skirts.

Pochayiv Lavra Monastery

There are many myths unique to this place. According to one of them, a noble woman, Anna Hoyska, has a brother who can not see. The eyes of her brother are healed by Theotokos icon miraculously, and as a result of this miracle, Anna donates this icon and her land to this Monastry.

According to another belief, "Theotokos" (Mother of God), in the name of Orthodox churches belongs to the characteristic of Eastern Christianity, seems to be a column of fire to the monks there. That is why local people are now beginning to believe that the water springs from this place and the stone in which a sign of Theotokos' foot, is good for disease.

During our coffee break, Ihor is telling us an interesting anecdote about how Europeans met with coffee. According to it, Europeans present coffee to Pope for his approval because they first become acquainted with coffee brought to their land by Ottomans during Vienna Battles. When Pope tastes coffee, he finds it somewhat bitter and approves it. In his opinion, what makes unpleasurable cannot be a sin! Altough we have a historical information that Pope liked coffee, we find the version Ihor told more believable :)

Next day of this fully journey, we go to Rohatyn, which is also known as the town of Hurrem. In the meantime, to state that it is difficult to understand each other due to the Cyrillic alphabet :) This town is approximately 60 km from the center of Lviv. This is a quiet and small town. We are welcomed by a monument to represent Hurrem exactly in the square. Just across the square we see the church of Hurrem’s (who is known as Roxelana) father who was priest. We are also witnessing the people in this country are proud of beauty and intelligence of Hurrem, the first concubine who succeeded in marrying a royal man in Ottoman history.

Town of Rohatyn

The church of Hurrem’s father

The monument of Hurrem (Roxelana)

The next day, after a four-hour journey, we go to the Carpathians region on the borders of Poland, Hungary, Romania and Ukraine. We find ourselves in nature's lap through a lush journey passing through little cute towns. After the journey, we arrive at the Synevir Lake, which is the largest lake in the Ukrainian Carpathians, located in the National Natural Park near the Synevir Village. It welcomes us with a unique lake view in the middle of lush trees. We are taking nature into ourselves.

Synevir Lake

This clear lake is about 989 meters above sea level. The deepest place of the lake is 24 m. It covers an area of about 4-5 hectares. According to the legend, Sin, a local feudal lord, does not give permission his daughter to marry the man whom she loves so much, and her unabated tears make up this lake.

We sit down for a while and watch the unique view of the lake, which shines like a diamond under the sunlight. Standing in awe of!

From here we go to Shypit Waterfall. We find peace with the sound of the flowing water...

Shypit Waterfall

Shypit Waterfall

At the same day evening, we are taking train tickets for Kiev from the historical train station. We are experiencing a different and nostalgic journey with the bed train about 300 grivna per person. After about 7 hours, we are in the capital Kiev.

Kiev is a capital of 3-4 million. It is a city quite different from Lviv with its big streets and squares. Outside the city there are modern buildings and urbanization is very much. It also became one of the strongest cities in the Middle Ages. However, we find Lviv, which we can travel more easily, more sympathetic than Kiev :)

First we go to Saint Sophia's Cathedral. This is under the protection of UNESCO. Here takes his name from Hagia Sofia. The architecture inside is the same. Then we go to the Saint Mikhail Monastery, just opposite St. Sofia, and then to the Independence Square (Maidan Nezalezhnosti) where the Orange Revolution takes place. They call the square "Maidan". It's a very moving square. On the one hand there is a concert, on the other side live sculptures, street artists and street sellers are experiencing a separate movement.

Saint Sophia’s Cathedral

Saint Mikhail Monastery

Saint Mikhail Monastery

Without losing time, we take the City Tour Bus to see the city panoramic. The center is located on the edge of the Dnieper River. We see Pechersk Lavra Monastery in Kiev by the river. We learn that Arsenalna which we see on the road with its 105.5 m, is the deepest subway in the world. We see the university that stands out with the red building of Shevchenko, who enables the idea of independence and raise awareness of the Ukrainian people with his poems. Just opposite there is a city park where his own monument is located.

After the bus tour, we are touring on Krishna Street, next to the Independence Square and it is closed for daytime traffic. This very busy street has been flooded by tourists. There are quite a lot of Turkish people here too. Apart from Turkish tourists there are also Turkish businessmen settled here.

Independence Square

In the close vicinity of Krishna Avenue we go to a restaurant where we can taste local delicacies. The waiters meet us in local clothes. Here we taste Kiev-style chicken and other local delicacies. We also wear traditional flower crown during meal :)

Ukraine’s traditional flower crown

After seeing the brilliant lively evening of Krishna Street, we say ‘goodbye’ to this country.